Pointe

How to Sew Ribbons and Elastic on Pointe Shoes: A Complete Guide

Getting your first pair of pointe shoes is a milestone, but the work isn't done once you leave the fitting room. Before you can take your first class en pointe, you need to sew on ribbons and elastic. Most pointe shoes ship without either attached, so this is a rite of passage every ballet dancer goes through.

Sewing ribbons on pointe shoes is straightforward once you know the technique. This guide walks you through every step—from gathering supplies to tying the finished ribbons—so your shoes are secure, comfortable, and ready for class. If you're still deciding on shoes, check our best pointe shoes guide first.

What You'll Need

Gather all your supplies before you start. You don't want to be halfway through sewing and realize you're missing thread. Here's the complete list:

Step 1: Find the Correct Ribbon Placement

Ribbon placement is the most important part of this process. Ribbons sewn in the wrong spot will either dig into your Achilles tendon or fail to hold the shoe securely.

The standard method for finding placement is the fold-the-heel method:

1. Place your shoe on a flat surface, sole down.
2. Fold the heel of the shoe (the back fabric) straight down and forward, pressing it flat against the inside sole of the shoe.
3. The point where the fold meets each side of the shoe is where your ribbons go. Mark each side with a pencil or pin.

This fold line corresponds roughly to the spot just in front of your ankle bone. When worn, the ribbons will wrap around the narrowest part of your ankle, giving maximum support without pressing on the tendon.

Step 2: Cut and Prepare the Ribbon

1. Cut your ribbon into four equal pieces, each about 22 inches long. You can always trim the length later once you've tied them on your ankle and know how much excess you have.
2. Seal the cut ends immediately. If using a lighter, hold the flame just below the ribbon edge and move it steadily across. The satin will melt slightly, creating a sealed edge. Don't hold the flame too close or too long—satin scorches quickly. If using nail polish, brush a thin coat across the cut edge and let it dry completely before handling.
3. At the end that will be sewn into the shoe, fold the ribbon down about 1/2 inch to create a clean, finished edge. This fold gets sewn into the shoe.

Step 3: Sew the Ribbons

Thread your needle with about 18 inches of heavy-duty thread. Double it over and knot the end if you want extra strength.

1. Position the ribbon. Open the shoe and place the folded end of the ribbon against the inside lining at your pencil mark. The ribbon should sit about 1/4 inch below the top edge of the shoe (the drawstring casing). Angle the ribbon very slightly toward the toes—about 10 to 15 degrees forward from straight up. This forward angle helps the ribbon wrap around your ankle cleanly.
2. Sew through the lining only. This is critical. Push your needle through the lining and the canvas layers underneath, but do not sew through the outer satin layer. Stitches visible on the outside of the shoe look messy and can weaken the satin. With a curved needle, you can scoop under the satin without piercing it.
3. Use a whip stitch. Sew along both edges and the bottom fold of the ribbon, creating a rectangular or U-shaped stitch pattern. Make your stitches small and close together—about 1/8 inch apart. You're sewing through dense material, so each stitch takes a firm push.
4. Secure the thread. When you reach the end, take two or three small stitches in the same spot to lock the thread, then cut it close.
5. Repeat for all four ribbons: two on each shoe, one on each side of the heel.

The entire process takes about 20–30 minutes per shoe once you get the hang of it. Your first pair may take longer—that's normal.

Step 4: Sew the Elastic

Elastic keeps the back of the shoe from gapping away from your heel. There are two common configurations:

Single Elastic

This is the most common setup and what most teachers recommend for beginners.

1. Cut a piece of 3/4" elastic about 5–6 inches per shoe. The elastic should be slightly shorter than the distance it needs to span so it stays taut when the shoe is on your foot.
2. Sew one end of the elastic to the inside of the shoe at the back, right next to one of your ribbon attachment points. Use the same whip stitch technique, sewing through the lining only.
3. Stretch the elastic across the back of the shoe and sew the other end next to the opposite ribbon, also on the inside.
4. The elastic should sit at or just below the level of your ankle bone when worn.

Cross Elastic

Some dancers prefer two thinner pieces of elastic (1/2" wide) crossed in an X pattern over the front of the ankle. This gives a more distributed hold and can be more comfortable for dancers with high insteps.

1. Cut two pieces of elastic, each about 4–5 inches long.
2. Sew one end of the first piece to the inside of the shoe near the front-inside of the ankle. Sew the other end near the back-outside, crossing over the tongue area.
3. Repeat with the second piece in the opposite direction, forming an X.
4. Put the shoe on and adjust the tension before doing the final stitching.

Step 5: Seal All Ribbon Ends

Before wearing your shoes, double-check that all four ribbon ends are properly sealed. Unsealed satin unravels fast, especially with repeated tying and untying.

Lighter method: Hold the cut end of the ribbon about 1/2 inch above the flame. Move it slowly across. The edge should melt slightly and become stiff. Don't let it catch fire—if it does, blow it out immediately. Practice on a scrap piece first.

Nail polish method: Brush a thin layer of clear polish across the cut edge. Apply it on a protected surface since it may drip. Let it dry for at least 10 minutes before tying.

Some dancers seal the ends before sewing (which we recommended earlier), but it's worth checking them again after trimming ribbons to your preferred length.

Step 6: How to Tie Pointe Shoe Ribbons

Properly tied ribbons keep your shoe secure and look clean. Here's the method:

1. Put the shoe on and stand in a parallel position (or relevé if you want to check the fit at full tension).
2. Take the inside ribbon (the one closest to the arch of your other foot) first. Wrap it around the back of your ankle, then bring it to the front, crossing over the outside of your ankle.
3. Take the outside ribbon and wrap it in the opposite direction—around the back, then to the front.
4. The ribbons should cross at the inside of your ankle. Make sure they lie flat without twisting.
5. Tie a small, tight knot at the inside of the ankle bone—never at the back over the Achilles tendon, which can cause irritation and restrict movement.
6. Tuck the knot and loose ends. Push the knot underneath the wrapped ribbons so it's hidden. Tuck any remaining ribbon ends under the layers as well. No ribbon ends should be visible or hanging loose.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Sewing through the satin. Stitches on the outside of the shoe weaken the satin and look unprofessional. Take your time and sew through the lining and canvas only.
• Sewing too close to the top edge. If your stitches are right at the top of the shoe, the ribbon attachment weakens the drawstring casing. Keep stitches about 1/4 inch below the top.
• Not angling the ribbons forward. Ribbons sewn straight up (perpendicular to the sole) tend to bunch at the ankle. That slight 10–15 degree forward angle makes a real difference in fit.
• Using regular sewing thread. It will break during class, usually at the worst possible moment. Always use heavy-duty or upholstery thread.
• Skipping the elastic. Ribbons alone don't keep the heel snug. You need elastic to prevent the shoe from slipping off your heel when you roll through demi-pointe.
• Tying the knot at the back. A knot over the Achilles tendon can cause pain and restrict your relevé. Always tie and tuck the knot at the inside of the ankle.
• Leaving ribbon ends unsealed. Frayed ribbons look sloppy and get worse fast. Seal them before your first wear.
• Making elastic too tight or too loose. Test the elastic tension with the shoe on your foot before doing the final stitching. You want it snug enough to hold the heel in place but not so tight that it restricts circulation or digs in.

Final Thoughts

Sewing ribbons and elastic on your pointe shoes gets easier every time you do it. Most dancers develop their own preferences over time—exact ribbon angle, elastic width, stitch tightness. The fundamentals stay the same: sew through the lining only, place ribbons at the heel fold line, angle slightly forward, and always seal your edges.

If you're new to pointe work, take a look at our pointe shoe fitting guide to make sure your shoes are the right shape, width, and shank strength for your feet. A well-fitted shoe that's properly sewn makes all the difference in comfort and performance. And if you're still shopping, our roundup of the best pointe shoes covers the top options for beginners and experienced dancers alike.